Yuzen Process

<BODY> <p class=MsoNormal><span lang=EN-US>Yuzen, one of the traditional dyeing techniques of kimono garment, requires a very intricate process.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>  </span>The work of making Kimono sold nowadays are usually done in a conveyer system, passing through different hands.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>  </span>However, in Hon-yuzen (genuine yuzen) method, the most part of the work is done by one person, using organic material and traditional technique that has been carried from </span><span lang=EN-US>Edo</span><span lang=EN-US> period.</span></p> <p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:12.0pt;text-indent:-12.0pt;mso-list:l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops:list 12.0pt'><span lang=EN-US style='mso-fareast-font-family: Century;mso-bidi-font-family:Century'><span style='mso-list:Ignore'>1.<span style='font:7.0pt "Times New Roman"'>  </span></span></span><span lang=EN-US>Designing & <i style='mso-bidi-font-style:normal'>Shirokiji</i></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal><span lang=EN-US>There are many traditional motifs, such as flower or birds, designed for patterns to<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>     </span><span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>dye on kimono, which are symbolic to specific seasons or occasions.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>  </span>However, it is not<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>   </span>restricted to only those very traditional ones these days, and it can explore other possibilities to make only one of a kind kimono.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>  </span>Designing is the initial and very important part of the kimono-making process.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>  </span>Along with designing, “shiro-kiji”, the white long cloth that is to be dyed and made into kimono is carefully selected.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>   </span>Not only plain fabrics, there are many kinds of “shiro-kiji”, that shows patterns according to the way it is woven.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>  </span></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:12.0pt;text-indent:-12.0pt;mso-list:l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops:list 12.0pt'><span lang=EN-US style='mso-fareast-font-family: Century;mso-bidi-font-family:Century'><span style='mso-list:Ignore'>2.<span style='font:7.0pt "Times New Roman"'>  </span></span></span><span lang=EN-US>Drafting</span></p> <p class=MsoNormal><span lang=EN-US>Shiro-kiji is carefully rinsed to remove any starch or dirt, and dried flat and in straight texture.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>  </span>At this point, <i style='mso-bidi-font-style: normal'>Shiro-kiji</i> is cut into several panels and they are sawed to the form of a complete kimono for a try-on.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>  </span>The design of patterns is drafted on a glass plate, and the plain white kimono is place on it.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>  </span>Light is put on from underneath, and the artwork is traced onto the kimono with a brush.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>  </span>For tracing the lines, soluble indigo plant ink is used.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>  </span>This method has not changed since </span><span lang=EN-US>Edo</span><span lang=EN-US> period.</span></p> <p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:12.0pt;text-indent:-12.0pt;mso-list:l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops:list 12.0pt'><i style='mso-bidi-font-style:normal'><span lang=EN-US style='mso-fareast-font-family:Century;mso-bidi-font-family:Century'><span style='mso-list:Ignore'>3.<span style='font:7.0pt "Times New Roman"'>  </span></span></span></i><i style='mso-bidi-font-style:normal'><span lang=EN-US>Itome-nori & Fu-nori</span></i></p> <p class=MsoNormal><span lang=EN-US>The kimono is put back into pieces of panels, and the blue lines of the design is once again traced over with “<i style='mso-bidi-font-style:normal'>itome-nori</i>” (rice powder paste).<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>  </span><i style='mso-bidi-font-style:normal'>Itome-nori</i> is made from “<i style='mso-bidi-font-style:normal'>mochi-ko</i>” (starch made of glutinous rice), rice bran, salt, and zinc.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>  </span>This works as a resist to keep the white garment underneath from pigment.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>  </span>A cone shaped tube with very small opening is used to squeeze out the paste, just like whipped cream is squeezed on a cake for decoration.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>  </span>To seal the resist, another starch “<i style='mso-bidi-font-style:normal'>fu-nori</i>” extracted from seaweed is brushed all over on the reverse of the garment.</span></p> <p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:12.0pt;text-indent:-12.0pt;mso-list:l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops:list 12.0pt'><span lang=EN-US style='mso-fareast-font-family: Century;mso-bidi-font-family:Century'><span style='mso-list:Ignore'>4.<span style='font:7.0pt "Times New Roman"'>  </span></span></span><i style='mso-bidi-font-style:normal'><span lang=EN-US>Iro-sashi</span></i></p> <p class=MsoNormal><span lang=EN-US>The next step is <i style='mso-bidi-font-style: normal'>iro-sashi, </i>hand-painting on the garment.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>  </span>Five basic colors are used in Yuzen, namely, red, yellow, blue, green and purple.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>  </span>They are mixed to make different colors, and with a bit of water for creating different tones of colors.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>  </span>Unlike drawing a picture, paint is not supposed to be brushed on the same spot more than one time.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>  </span>For painting, brushes with many different sizes and shapes are used, as well as painting technique such as gradation or shading.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>  </span>Then, starch resist is applied to all the painted area to protect them when the background color is brushed on.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>  </span>Then, very fine sawdust is sprinkled over the starch before it dries.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>  </span>This sawdust absorbs the background color, and doubly makes sure to keep the design from being spoiled.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>  </span></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:12.0pt;text-indent:-12.0pt;mso-list:l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops:list 12.0pt'><i style='mso-bidi-font-style:normal'><span lang=EN-US style='mso-fareast-font-family:Century;mso-bidi-font-family:Century'><span style='mso-list:Ignore'>5.<span style='font:7.0pt "Times New Roman"'>  </span></span></span></i><i style='mso-bidi-font-style:normal'><span lang=EN-US>Ji-zome & Mushi </span></i><span lang=EN-US>(steaming)</span></p> <p class=MsoNormal><span lang=EN-US>After leaving the garment overnight till the starch becomes completely dry, the background color is brushed on with a wide brush, which process is called “<i style='mso-bidi-font-style:normal'>ji-zome</i>”.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>  </span>The brush should not be moistened with the paint, either too much or too little.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>  </span>Only practice and experience can tell the right amount of paint in this process.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>   </span>Now, the painted kimono is ready to be steamed to infiltrate the paint in silk fiber and stabilize the color.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>  </span>It is steamed in a room with 100% humidity, for about 40 minutes.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>  </span></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:12.0pt;text-indent:-12.0pt;mso-list:l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops:list 12.0pt'><span lang=EN-US style='mso-fareast-font-family: Century;mso-bidi-font-family:Century'><span style='mso-list:Ignore'>6.<span style='font:7.0pt "Times New Roman"'>  </span></span></span><i style='mso-bidi-font-style:normal'><span lang=EN-US>Mizumoto</span></i><span lang=EN-US> & <i style='mso-bidi-font-style:normal'>Yunoshi</i></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal><span lang=EN-US>Finally, the starch resist is washed off, which is called “<i style='mso-bidi-font-style:normal'>mizumoto</i>”.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>  </span>Then, the long garment is stretched from the both ends and hang to dry under the sun light.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>  </span>Washing process used be done in natural streams, by holding one end of the garment and letting it sway in the water.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>   </span>However, it is done in a special water pool in the modern times.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>  </span>When it is required depending on the design, small parts and lines of the patterns are finished up with colors used in Japanese painting.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>  </span>Then, the garment is soaked in warm water, pressed and straightened one last time, which is a process called “yu-noshi”.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>  </span>Finally, the elaboratedly dyed silk panels are sewn back together into a beautiful piece of kimono.</span></p> </BODY>